A Month of Sundays: Brunch at the Bonneville
The first of 31 reports on brunch in Austin
Brunch hours: 10:30am-2:30pm Sunday
Other hours: 4:30-10pm Tue-Wed; 4:30-11pm Thu-Sat; 4:30-9pm Sun
By Mike Sutter | © Fed Man Walking | 01.30.16
At the Bonneville, Jennifer Costello and Chris Hurley bring down-to-earth charm and sensibility to downtown dining. Their “chicken under a brick” is one of the city’s best dishes. The simple, urbane grace of their restaurant looks even better in the Sunday morning light of brunch. So much better that they plan to add Saturday brunch service, too. Can’t wait for that? On Saturdays from 9 a.m. to 1 p.m., the Bonneville sets up at the SFC Farmers Market at Fourth and Guadalupe, selling sticky buns and biscuits with lamb pastrami.
What you’re eating
► Popover Eggs Benedict: The violence of sawing through an English muffin is a barbaric contrast to the genteel poached eggs and Hollandaise of a classic eggs Benedict. The Bonneville defuses the tension with a housemade popover as delicate as a croissant shell over air-puffed honeycombs of soft bread born to absorb the protein gold of egg yolk and lemon-edged Hollandaise. It’s built out with shaved Virginia ham and sautéed spinach. I couldn’t help thinking how good this would be with the Bonneville’s lamb pastrami. The upside: The Bonneville’s bringing that lamb pastrami to brunch soon for Reuben sandwiches. ($13)
► Bacon tater tots: Think of these as bite-size baked potatoes, fortified with onions and bacon, then fried crisp. Served with chipotle ketchup and green onion sour cream. ($4)
What you’re drinking
► Barrel-aged Bloody Mary: Treaty Oak's Starlite vodka — aged in an oak barrel with black peppercorns, Szechuan peppercorns, dried ancho and guajillo chiles and basil — creates sharp-edged aromatics against a smooth tomato backdrop. It doesn’t have a toothpick buffet of meats and cheeses on top. Just an olive and lime. And that’s enough ($10). Or try a breakfast martini, finished with orange marmalade.
► Pecan sticky bun: Rings of pastry bloom like a rose around this plate-sized cinnamon roll, cascading with pecan glaze as thick as a chocolate fountain with pecans scattered like good luck coins. ($4)
► Brunch highlights: Bananas Foster French toast, crêpes, chipotle-lime chicken hash, smoked salmon, house Pop Tarts. See the full brunch menu here
► Pajama-Rama: Once every mid-month, the staff shows up in pajamas for brunch. If you show up in PJs, your first mimosa’s on the house. But do something about that morning breath, Chester.
(Photos by Mike Sutter © Fed Man Walking)