San Antonio review: The fall of Lüke

By Mike Sutter | Fed Man Walking | 10.13.16
The heartbreak of visiting Lüke for my inaugural San Antonio Express-News restaurant review reached its breakiest point watching fellow critic Edmund Tijerina twitch, haunted by the times he’s recommended Lüke to friends and visitors. Whatever charms celebrity chef John Besh brought to this stylish New Orleans saloon when it opened in 2010, they’ve faded with time.
It brings me no joy in my first review — especially as the new critic from Austin — that I can’t give Lüke even the single star of “a restaurant that we recommend.”
I loved the place during an anniversary lunch there in 2011, when Lüke captivated me the same way it did Tijerina, who wrote: “There’s a feeling that the employees are the hosts of a great party.” But a restaurant isn’t a time capsule; it’s a living record. And after a run of bad oysters, sloppy execution and amateur service, Lüke no longer feels like a party.
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(Photos by Mike Sutter © Express-News and Fed Man Walking)